The plan in Christmas vacations of 2014 was to visit Odisha specifically Puri and Bhubaneswar. We also decided to join All India Meet 2014 organized by HV Kumar & group. Following was the itinerary that was finally designed.
The total drive was of 3910 kilometres with a total drive time of 71.14 hours. Total about 430 litres of Diesel was used up in the trip. Total amount spent in tolls was Rs. 3045/-.
Finally the vacation is coming to an end. Last drive and we are back home.
5:50 AM Get ready and leave the hotel. We very quickly find NH-5. Unexpectedly there is significant Fog on the highway. In India one sees a bizarre behaviour, rather than having proper fog lamps, people just turn on their hazard lights as soon as they see fog or rain. It makes driving on highway so difficult because you never know when somebody will change their lanes.
We saw an ATM just opposite Gateway Hotel so we decided to withdraw the money in the morning. In the morning the machine had no money. So we had to start without sufficient money to refuel the car. We decided we will find something on the way. It was not such a bright idea because most of the ATMs were locked that early in the morning.
High5
6:44 AM We saw some ATMs open at Chilakaluripet and we withdrew the money for refuelling. Most of the ATMs in India shutdown at night now a days because of criminal activities. So one has to either look for ATMs in crowded areas where sufficient security exists to keep the ATMs open.
7:33 AM We cross Ongole.
7:50 AM We stop at a largish petrol station which has a restaurant called High-5 associated with it. I had most bizarre experience at this place. The toilets etc were comparatively clean but I had to order food 15 times. The guy will just keep on forgetting the order. Finally you just have to go and stand near the kitchen with a place and ask him to give you food. He won't even remember what he served you. To bill, he will ask you what all did you eat and ask you to pay money based on that. It was very slow and I would not really suggest it.
8:35 AM Finally we are done with the breakfast and we leave the place.
Hotel Dillis
9:45 AM We see the outskirts of Nellore. 9:56 AM We are clear of Nellore.
10:20 AM We cross Gudur
11:25 AM Turn left to connect to NH-18A 10:35 AM We leave NH-5, turn right on SH-61 which will connect to NH205/NH716 and take us to Tirupati which will connect us back to NH-18A and then to NH-4 and take us to Bengaluru. 11:40 AM We saw this place called Hotel Dillis. It looked new and clean. This place was actually bizarre. I have seen all over Gujarat, toilet built outside the hotel building. Here one had to walk almost 100 meters to go to toilets. Look at the photo on the left, th ephoto is taken from where the toilets are. We had tea which was also bad.
12:35 PM Join into NH-18. 1:05 PM Crossed Chittoor.
Nandi Food Plaza
1:30 PM Stopped at Nandi Food Plaza at Reliance Petrol Station because we saw many busses stopped there. Had lunch there, please looked extremely unhygienic and there was no water in toilets. Would not suggest anybody to stop there. There are better places down the road. 1:50 PM We are done with lunch and drive on. Since there were no usable toilet facilities at this place. we had to stop again. Fortunately there is a cafe coffee day just 10 minutes away from this place. 1:58 PM Reached cafe coffee day. The place is good but some of the food items were stale. We had a case of food poisoning here from a desert item that we consumed. I think hot items are OK but frozen items are all suspect. 2:20 PM Crossed Palamner 3:00 PM Crossed Mulbagal 3:15 PM Crossed Kolar 4:00 PM We reached K R Puram area. Finally we are back to Bengaluru.
We start our drive back. We have planned to doing it in two days.
5:45 AM We start from the hotel, get on to NH-5 and continue our drive back. The road is empty and good. 7:30 AM Crossed Chhatrapur 7:41 AM Crossed Brahmapur 7:56 AM Crossed Ichchapuram 8:20 AM Crossed Kasibugga 9:04 AM Crossed Srikakulam 10:09 AM We entered Visakhapatanam. We thought we will get better restaurants within the town so we decided to go through the city. In hindsight it was a pretty bad idea. It was so crowded that we did not stop at any restaurant and it took long time for us to get out of city.
10:57 AM We almost get out of the town but still see city traffic.
11:32 AM Crossed Anakpalle. Just after Anakpalle we see a dhaba with a BP petrol station and we decide to stop there and have something to eat.
The place was average but food was hot and the petrol station next to it had toilets which were usable. The person running the dhaba was very particular about not allowing liquor in the place. We saw him arguing with a group of five individuals who wanted to drink and he told them to go somewhere else. They returned after 10 minutes with liquor in Pepsi bottles and he again told them to go away. Those guys then sat in the parking, drank there and then came to dhaba for food. 12:30 PM We finished the food and continued on our way.
1:16 PM Crossed Tuni 1:30 PM Crossed Annavaram 2:30 PM Crossed Rajahmundry 3:17 PM Crossed Tanuku 4:01 PM Crossed Eluru 4:56 PM We are on the outskirts of Vijaywada
With the near year's dawn it was almost our time to wind up the trip. This was the last day in Bhubaneswar and then we start out journey back home. It was raining heavily in Bhubaneswar and we did not really feel like going anywhere. Finally after dithering for a long time, we decided to visit one last place.
02:15 PM Got ready for left for Dhauli giri. This place is famous for a Shanti Stupa and Asoka's rock edicts.
2:45 PM We reach the shanti stupa on the top of the hill.
Shanti Stupa
There isn't much to see in Shanti Stupa. It is supposed to be a peaceful place but because of public holiday on the way we reached, it was extremely crowded. We drive down the hill and take a left turn near the Asoka Edicts. There is a Asoka pillar and many statues of Buddha.
We leave our car parked near the Asoka pillar and then go to the complex with Asoka Edicts.
Rock with Asoka Edicts
Rock with Asoka Edicts
The top of Asoka Edict Rock (Gajjottam)
Here is the text that is on the Asoka Edict rock and on the signboard at the entrance. One can only wish if today's ruler are able to appreciate and follow these teachings.
Rock Edicts of Asoka
Discovered in the year 1837 by Lt. M. Kittoe, the set of Rock Edicts
contain eleven out of the well known fourteen Rock Edicts of Asoka
(BC. 273-236). The language of the edicts is Magadhi Prakrita and the
script being the early Brahmi. Here the omission of the thirteenth
edicts is deliberate as it describes Asoka's conquest of Kalinga
involving a great carnage, captivity and misery of the people. The
Kalinga war was the turning point in his career and he not only gave up
his ambition of Digvijaya but also converted him into Dharmasoka from
Chandasoka. In place of the eleventh, twelfth and thirteenth rock
edicts, two special edicts known as Separate Rock Edicts or Kalinga
Edicts have been incorporated here which are conciliatory in nature and
meant for the pacification of the newly conquered people of Kalinga.
On the rock above the inscription, is the sclupted forepart of an
elephant carved out of live rock which symbolizes Buddha, the "best of
elephants" (Gajottama) as in this form he was believed to have entered
his mother's womb in dream.
Summary of the contents of Asokan Edicts are as follows:
R.E.I - Prohibition of killing of animal in the kingdom including
his royal kitchen and imposition of restrictions on festive occasions
(Samaja).
R.E.II - Arrangements were made both for human and animal beings for
medicinal treatments and plantation of medicinal herb both in his and
bordering kingdoms. Planted trees and dug wells on the road sides.
R.E.III - Ordered his officials to set out on tour every five years
to propagate moral codes among his subjects
R.E.IV - Ordered his officials to promote the practice of morality
and compassion among his subjects and wished that these practice would
be followed by his descendants.
R.E.V - Appointed Mahamatras from all sects to establish and promote
morality.
R.E.VI - Ordered his officers to report him on matters of
administration related to the affairs of the people at all times and at
all places.
R.E.VII - Self control and purity of mind are objects of attainment
for all sects.
R.E.VIII - On the tenth year of his anointment he went out to
Sambodhi which was followed by visit to the Brahmanas and Sramanas,
helped the poor and propagate morality
R.E. IX - Recommended the practice of morality, conssting of
courtesy to slaves and servants, reverence to elders, gentleness to
animals and liberality to Brahmanas and Sramanas
R.E. X - Proclaimed that morality is the only act of fame and
glory
R.E. XIV - Inscribed way of morality at various places in his vast
empire according to the subject matter and places.
Special Rock Edicts
Address the Mahamatras of Toshali, Asoka proclaims that all his
subjects are just like his own children and he wishes their welfare and
happiness both in this world and the other as he desires for his own
children. He ordered his officials to be free from anger and hurry so
that nobody will be punished without trial.
He ordered the Mahamatras of Toshali to assure his piety to the
unconquered border territories of forest region (Atavikas)
अशोक के शिलालेख
सन १८३७ में लेफ्टीनेंट मार्खम किट्टो के द्वारा खोजा गया इस शिलालेख में अशोक के सुप्रसिद्ध चतुर्दश शिलानुशासनों में से ग्यारह को लिपिबद्ध किया गया है। त्रयोदश शिलानुशासन को यहाँ पर स्थापना न करने का उद्देश्य है क्योंकि शिलानुशासन में मौर्य सम्राट अशोक के (२७३ - २३६ ई पू) कलिङ्ग विजय तथा उसकी विभीषिका एवं जनसाधारण के दुख़ दुर्दशा के बारे में वर्णन किया गया है। यह कलिङ्ग युद्ध सम्राट अशोक के जीवन के गतिपथ सम्पूर्ण रूप से परिवर्तन करके उनके दिग्विजय होने की आकांक्षा को सम्पूर्ण पृषभीत किया था और वे चंडाशोक से धर्माशोक में परिवर्तित हो गए थे। धउली में दो शिलालेख कलिङ्ग के जनसाधारण को सांत्वना का उदाहरण हैं।
शिलालेख उपर एक हस्ती का अग्रभाग उत्खनित हुआ है जो कि भगवान बुद्ध का प्रतीक माना जाता है क्योंकि भगवान बुद्ध की गजोत्तम के रूप में विवेचना की जाती है। वो सपनों में हस्ति के रूप में मातृदेवी के गर्भ में प्रविष्ट हुए थे ऎसा विशवास किया जाता है।
अशोक के शिलालेखों का संक्षिप्त विवरण
प्रथम शिलालेख : किसी भी पशु वध न किया जाए तथा राजकीय एवँ "मनोरंजन तथा उत्सव" न किये जाने का आदेश दिया गया है ।
द्वितीय शिलालेख : मनुष्यों और पशुओं के लिए चिकित्सालय खुलवाना और उनमें औषधि की व्यवस्था करना। मनुष्यों एवँ पशुओं के के कल्याण के लिए मार्गों पर छायादार वृक्ष लगवाने तथा पानी की व्यवस्था के लिए कुँए खुदवाए।
तृतीय शिलालेख : राजकीय पदाधिकारियों को आदेश दिए गए हैं कि प्रति पाँच वर्षों के बाद धर्म प्रचार के लिए दौरे पर जायें।
चतुर्थ शिलालेख : राजकीय पदाधिकारियों को आदेश दिए गए हैं कि व्यवहार के सनातन नियमों यथा - नैतिकता एवं दया - का सर्वत्र प्रचार प्रसार किया जाए ।
पञ्चम शिलालेख : इसमें धर्ममहामात्रों की नियुक्ति तथा धर्म और नैतिकता के प्रचार प्रसार के आदेश का वर्णन है ।
षष्ट शिलालेख : राजकीय पदाधिकारियों को स्पष्ट आदेश देता है कि सर्वलोकहित से सम्बंधित कुछ भी प्रशासनिक सुझाव मुझे किसी भी समय या स्थान पर दें ।
सप्तम शिलालेख : सभी जाति, सम्प्रदाय के व्यक्ति सब स्थानों पर रह सकें क्योंकि वे सभी आत्म-संयम एवं ह्रदय की पवित्रता चाहते हैं ।
अष्टम शिलालेख : राज्यभिषेक के दसवें वर्ष अशोक ने सम्बोधि (बोधगया) की यात्रा कर धर्म यात्राओं का प्रारम्भ किया। ब्राम्हणों एवं श्रमण के प्रति उचित वर्ताव करने का उपदेश दिया गया है ।
नवम शिलालेख : दास तथा सेवकों के प्रति शिष्टाचार का अनुपालन करें, जानवरों के प्रति उदारता, ब्राह्मण एवं श्रमण के प्रति उचित वर्ताव करने का आदेश दिया गया है ।
दशम शिलालेख : घोषणा की जाए की यश और कीर्ति के लिए नैतिकता होनी चाहिए ।
चतुर्दश शिलालेख : धर्म प्रचानार्थ अशोक अपने विशाल साम्राज्य के विभिन्न स्थानों पर शिलाओं के उपर धम्म लिपिबद्ध कराया जिसमें धर्म प्रशासन संबंधी महत्वपूर्ण सूचनाओं का विवरण है ।
पृथक शिलालेख
प्रथम पृथक शिलालेख :- तोशाली के महामात्रों को सम्बोधित करते हुए अशोक आदेश देता है कि सभी प्रजा मेरी संतान हैं । जिस प्रकार मैं अपनी संतान के लिए इच्छा करता हूँ कि इहलोक और परलोक में उनकी सुख समृद्धि हो उसी प्रकार सभी प्रजा के लिए मेरी इच्छा है । बिना उचित कारण के किसी को शारीरिक दंड, ईर्ष्या, क्रोध आदि दुर्गुणों से रहित निस्पक्ष मार्ग का अनुकरण करने का उपदेश देता है ।
द्वितीय पृथक शिलालेख : तोशाली के महामात्रों आदेश देता है की सीमांत राज्यों के लोगों के हित - कल्याण को ध्यान में रखा जाय और उन पर अनुग्रह की नीति अपनाई जाए ।
3:40 PM We finally leave the place back to hotel. 4:30 PM We reach back hotel. The tourism portion of the vacation is over and only thing remaining is the drive back.
31-December-2014
As the last day of the year arrived, the plan was to do the Buddhist archaeological circuit around Bhubaneswar. The started with rain arriving in Bhubaneswar.
Looking at the time on hand, we decided to visit three main archaeological sites around Bhubaneswar. These are Udayagiri, Ratnagiri, Lalitgiri. 12:00 PM Left the hotel, quickly got on to NH-5 towards Cuttack. 12:55 PM Reach Cuttack. There are many construction activities going on in Cuttack and it takes some time to get out of city.
There are many detours and traffic snarls. Outside of towns the NH5 is in pretty good shape but once near towns there are many overbridges being made and they slow down the traffic.
Udaygiri situated 102 km north-east from Bhubaneswar. The northern half of the valley had been excavated from 1985-86 to 1989-90. which had brought to light remains of a huge Buddhist Monastic complex protected by a large enclosure wall , a seven metre high stupa having four dhyani Buddhas in all four cardinal direction of the stupa. The site was identified as “Madhavapura Mahavihara” on the basis of epigraphical findings. After gap of 08 years excavations at the medieval Buddhist was resumed in 1997-98 in the southern half of the valley named as Udayagiri-2. The excavation had partially revealed a double storied monastic complex datable to 8th Cent. A.D. and important antiquities images of Buddha, Tara, Manjusri, Avalokitesvara, Jatamukuta Lokesvara and terracotta sealings.
1:40 PM Reached Khosalipur where we turn right towards NH-5A. NM5A is good four laned road with good surface quality. The turn into NH-5A is hard to notice. One has to just cross the overbridge and turn right next to traffic island.
Ratnagiri Monastery in Jajgir district of Orissa crowning like flat hill-top is affording a panormic view of the surrounding might have been chosen for the Buddhist establishment for its isolated eminence which ensure that monks seclusion for the serene and calm atmosphere necessary for monastic life, meditation, and studies. Excavations conducted by Archaeological Survey of India in late 1960's yielded the remains of an impressive stupa (Stupa 1) surrounded by a large number of Votive Stupas of varying dimensions, two quadrangular monasteries (monasteries 1 and 2), a single winged huge monastery with beautiful carved door jamb and lintel., specious open courtyard, cells and verandah facing the courtyard with a specious sanctum enshrining colossal Buddha. The existence of temple with curvilinear tower is only one of its kind discovered in Orissa.
From the impressive remains and a large number of sculptures, discovered during the excavation, it is clear that the Buddhist establishment of Ratnagiri dating from Circa 5th century A.D. witnessed a phenomenal growth in religion, art and architecture till the 13th century A.D. A large number of stone sculptures, a few bronze and brass images of Buddha and of Buddhist pantheon recovered during excavations tend to prove that Ratnagiri was a great Tantric centre of Buddhism comparable to that of Nalanda in Bihar.
A large number of clay sealings, found during excavations, bearing the legend "Shri Ratnagiri Mahavihariya Arya Bhikshu Samghasya" have helped in identifying the name of Rathagiri monastery. By the end of 13th Century A.D., it was on decline, decadence is discernible i.e. in architecture amd sculptural art of Ratnagiri. Though no longer in an affluent condition the Buddhist establishment at Ratnagiri continued till about the 16th Century A.D.
1:49 PM Reached the place where we need to turn left for Udayagiri and Ratnagiri. The road is undivided and narrow but with really good surface quality. Given that there is not much traffic on the road, it is not a problem at all. 2:04 PM We reach the Udayagiri complex. The place has a large compound which seems to have been converted by some people into a picnic spot There is music being played. Anyway we ignore all of that and have a look at the site. 3:05 PM It takes just about an hours to leisurely go through the complex. If there is intense interest in archaeology then one can spend more time.
The next stop was Ratnagiri, the place is just about 4-5 kilometers from Udayagiri. We reach there in 20 minutes.
3:25 PM By this time we realise that we are running short on time since most monuments close at around 5-5:30 in the area. So we decide to just visit the Ratnagiri monuments but skip the museum that is next doors. This is a large area and requires longer to go through. But we kind of do a quick job of it.
4:05 PM Leave Ratnagiri for Lalitgiri. While on our way back, the google map shows a route that doesn't require on to go back to Udayagiri but unfortunately that path is not in a motorable shape. After couple of about turns, we decide to go back to NH-5A and then find the path to Lalitgiri.
Beautifully carved door.
4:38 PM We were back at NH-5A and continued towards Lalitgiri. 4:45 PM Reached Lalitgiri. The place is not very crowded and there were few tourists there.
We were pretty late, it was already dark, so we very quickly went around the site.
5:20 PM We leave Lalitgiri. 7:15 PM Reached hotel.
11:30 AM We left the hotel, drove on NH-203 and turned left into NH-13 that takes us to Konark. The road like most road in Odisha that we encountered are good but undivided and two laned making overtaking and dealing with oncoming traffic little difficult.
Konark temple is a classic example of how over the years we have messed up our heritage. The place clearly was a fabulous structure but years of neglect and damage has just meant that the temple keeps of deteriorating.
The carvings on the temple are just magnificent. the picture above is the wheel of the chariot in Konark temple and the picture below is the carving in one of the spokes. Each of the spokes have such intricate carvings.
There is so much construction going on at the temple and it seems to have been going on for eternity.
Because of holidays, the place was super crowded. 3:15 PM Finished with the temple and started back.
There is a Yatrinivas, we decided to go for lunch but were informed that some VIP has booked the place and there is no lunch for us. So we decided to leave back for home. We were also told by friends that there is this place called Pipili where one can get handicrafts items, so we decided to go there before going back to hotel. 5:20PM We reach Pipili and drive through the main streets. The place looks completely closed. We couldn't locate any place that was selling handicrafts. So we head back to hotel.
