Tuesday 30 May 2017

Summer 2017 -- Back to the nature

The summer vacation was upon us and this year, nature seems to be calling. We made a plan to drive to Madhya Pradesh and visit national parks.


The drive was spread over three weeks with approximately one week stop to take care of some things.
The trip lasted 22 days with 12 days of active driving days. Total distance covered was 6402 kilometer with approximately 650 liters of diesel consumed. The tolls paid during the travel were approximately Rs. 3500/-. FastTag was accepted in most tolls with significant haggling and it saved no time. Most places FasTag took longer than regular queue.

Day 22, Bhopal to Bengaluru

29-04-2017
04:30 AM Started from Bhopal
5:45 AM Just after Budhni, stopped for breakfast, poha and chai.

7:28 AM Stopped at Hotel Meghna just around Betul for a bio break.
10:17 AM Stopped at Hotel Le Meredien, Nagpur for a brunch. Total one hour break.
12:04 PM Got stuck at Hinghanghat railway crossing for 10 minutes.
1:09 PM Stopped at Hotel Rahul in Pandharkawada, found out that the restaurant is closed because of ban on bars near highway.

2:45 PM Stopped at Singh is King Dhaba for lunch near Nirmal.

5:55 PM Entered Hyderabad Outer Ring Road, exited on Bengaluru road at 6:45 PM.
7:27 PM Stopped at Cafe Coffee Day near Hotel Hill Park food court.

11:14 PM Stopped at Royal Dhaba near Karadikonda.
03:30 AM Reached Home.

Day 15 -- Delhi to Bhopal

23-04-2017
Even though we had planned on starting early, by the time we started it was already 8:30 AM.
09:45 AM Stopped at the rest area in the middle of YEW.
2:00 PM Stopped at Barista Gwalior
4:45 PM Crossed Jhansi
5:00 PM Stopped at Mamta Resort near Jhansi

8:00 PM Stopped at Radisson hotel bina kurwai road. This has nothing to do with popular Radisson chain of hotels.
10:00 PM Crossed Sanchi
11:00 PM Reached Bhopal.

Day 14 -- Bhopal to Delhi

22-04-2017
This was an impromptue trip to Delhi and back.
5:30 AM Started from Bhopal, took the Sanchi Road.

09:10 AM Reached Radha Kunj Dhaba near Lalitpur. I pretty much always stop here for breakfast. Not great, but a typical highway dhaba.
10:50 AM Turned towards Gwalior at N-S corridor.
11:55 AM There is a Reliance Petrol station in Dabra, they accept credit cards, stopped there for filling up the tank.
12:41 PM Stopped at the Barista Gwalior for a small snack and coffee break.
2:20 PM Crossed Chambal Ravines
3:30 PM Entered Agra.
4:00 PM Entered Yamuna Expressway
6:00 PM Reached Noida.

Day 11 -- Bhimbetka, Manav Sangrahalay

18-04-2017

The day was reserved for local sightseeing in Bhopal. We were tired as well so we decided to rest for few hours in the day and then visit Bhim Betka.
Bhimbetka is being inhabited from early days. To study the cultural development of human beings many excavations were carried out. Summarizing the evidence from all the excavations the following cultural sequence emerges at Bhibetka.
Lower Paleolithic Period -- 1,00,000 - 40,000 years
Evidence of pebble tool assemblage below the acheulian deposit with a sterile layer in between is a remarkable finding.
Middle Paleolithic Period -- 40,000 - 20,000 years
There are a number of tools made on flat natural stones instead of flakes.
Upper Paleolithic Period -- 20,000 -- 10,000 years
The characteristic features of upper paleolithic period is the increase in the proportion of smaller and slender blades.
The Mesolithic 10,000 -- 2,500 years
The mesolithic people used micro lithic tools on siliceous material like chert and chalcedony. During this period maximum number of shelters and caves were occupied. It clearly shows increase in human population.
The meoslithic people regularly used fire as is testified by the presence of ash, charcoal and charred bones and antlers. These people made floors with flat stone slabs and stone boulder wall to partition the cave into compartments.
After the discovery of metal such as copper and iron, the hunter-gatherer way of life slowly tranformed to life on the plans to practice of farming.
Bhim Betka
Bhim Betka displays paintings that appear to date from Mesolithic period right through historical period. The paintings show gradual development of social cultural life of man kind. The rock paintings of early phase comprises human and animal figures in line drawings.
The rock paintings of Mesolithic period are demonstrated by hunting scenes these might have been a hunter gatherers.
Most of the hunting scenes below to earlier phrase confined to Mesolithic and Chalcolithic periods whereas horse riding, elephant riding and ballte scenes which appear more refined are associated with Historical period.
The colors were derived from locally available minerals such as ochre color from haematite and white color from lime. The corroborating evidence of the use of various mineral colors for paintings has also come from the various excavations at Bhim Betka.
The binding medium used for pigments are both water and fixative like animal fat and plan extract like gum etc. In the presence of water and other solvents minerals get oxidised so as to leave their color on rock surface.
Rock paintings are made on bare rock surface without any preparation of the base by plastering, grinding or smoothening. The naturally existing soft and smooth fibers, hair and fingers might have been used as brush so as to run on the uneven and unprepared surface of the rock. Figures at considerable heights were probably painted by artists standing on some soft of scaffolding or on branches of trees. In some cases projected platform as part of the shelter that might have existed and have since collapsed was used for painting at higher elevations.
Sometimes the earlier painted srfaces were used several times by artists of later period(s) without obliterating the older figures. The superimpositions of such paintings of different stules and periods can be seen in many of the rock shelters at Bhimbetka. As many as fifteen layers of superimposition have been recorded at Bhimbetka.



We reached Bhim Betka at 3:30 PM.
The shelter has paintings mostly of historic period. On the upper ceiling there are silhouetted paintings of two elephants. The smaller elephant is driven by a man standing on its back holding a goad in one hand, a spear in other and a sword in his waist. Both the elephants are shown with long uplifted tusks. Drawings of a horseman and a soldier are seen higher up to the left and two men are on the left. In the depression on the rock face below, the elephants and a bull is depicted, wounded by the arrow of a hunter. The figures are painted on the earlier drawing of a horse rider facing a soldier. To the far left another rider is shown on the back look like a feline. There is several stick like human figures shown engaged in brisk activities.
The mesolithic (C.10,000 - 2,500 years) people used to bury their dead within the caves in the living areas. The dead body was placed either in east or west. Stone querns, rubbers, antlers, bone tools, and hematite nodules were placed with the dead as grave goods. Usually the skeletons are found in disintegrated state.
Zoo Rock shelter is semi-circular in shape and contains 453 figures comprising of 252 animals of 16 different species. Apart from animal figures, 90 human figures in several activities, 1 bird, 6 decorative designs, 2 enclosures idenfied as snares, 1 inscription in Sankha script and 99 fragmented figures are identified in the shelter.
Except a few that belong to mesolithic period, most figures belong to the chalcolithic and historical period. The shelter is richly depicted with as many as ten layers of superimposed figures with raises curiosity about the significance of this shelter.
The depiction of royal procession can be seen in the lower portions of shelter painted in dark ochre color. The horsemen and soldiers are shown with long hair and typical head dress. They are armed with bows, arrows, swords, and shields. The horse riders are accompanied by two drummers and a man carrying a staff.
The mushrom shaped like shelter is known as Boar rock due to a gigantic figure painted on rock surface. The boar like mythical animal depicted with two crescent shalped horns, a massive snout with whiskers and bristles on the back. Near its snout, is the figure of a fleeing man and that of a crab. There are three human figures near its forelegs and a fourth behind its hind legs.

By the time we were done with BhimBetka, it was late, we still decided to make a run for Indiragandhi Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya. We reached there just when it was about to close for the day. Some pictures from that place are here.

One needs more time to do justice to this place. 

Day 10 -- Bhopal to Omkareswar, Maheswar, Mahakaleswar and back

17-04-2017
The day was dedicated to Lord Siva.
06:30 AM We left Bhopal towards Indore. We decided first to visit Omkareswar and then visit other places.
7:50 AM Stopped at Sol Retreat for a quick chai break.
9:20 AM Turned towards Indore.
12:00 PM Reached Omkareswar, stopped at Narmada Resort for quick lunch.

As we reached Omkareswar, we found that the temple was closed till 2:00 PM, we waited around and then finally got a quick darshan at the jyotirling. Then we decided to directly drive to Maheshwar.
2:30 PM We left for Maheshwar.
3:30 PM We reached Maheshwar. Since we had skipped lunch, we had decided to grab a quick bite at Narmada Retreat there.
Maheswar Fort is really a scenic place, the banks of Narmada, the fort and temples within fort are worth spending few hours there.








6:25 PM We left Maheshwar, started towards Ujjain.
9:30 PM Reached Ujjain. The temple was fortunately not very crowded, we were able to do a quick darshan.

10:50 PM We left Ujjain for Bhopal.
2:00 AM We reached Bhopal.

Monday 29 May 2017

Day 9 -- Jabalpur to Bhopal

16-04-2017
Slowly tiredness was setting in, so we decided to take is little easy. We started from Jabalpur only by 11 AM. Straightway we continued towards Bhopal, via Damoh and Sagar.  We stopped only at Sagar for Lunch.

1:55 PM Reached Hotel Deepali in Sagar. Left at 3:00 PM

5:30 PM Reached Sanchi Stupa. We were late so we straightaway went inside. It is always breathtaking.

During the third century BC, the Mauryan emperor Asoka  (Circa 213-36 BC), the great patron of Buddhism, selected Vedisagiri (Sanchi Hill) for the foundation of a Buddhist establishment because the hill ensured quietude and seclusion necessary for monastic life. It was situated near the rich populous and patronizing city of Vidisha. He erected here, a stone column and a brick stupa. The Sunga period (second century BC) witnessed the stone encasing and enlargement of the stupa of Asoka (Stupa 1), Erection of balustrades Round its ground, berm, a stairway and Harmika, reconstruction of Temple 40 & building of stupas 2 and 3. During the Satyavahana regime (first century BC) four lofty gateways were added to Stupa 1 and one gateway to Stupa 3. Structural activities are on a slow pace during the reign of the Kshtrapas of Malwa (early centuries of the christian era) and Sanchi imported images from Mathura during the period.  Four images of the Buddha are placed against the beam of stupa 1 facing the four entrances. Temple 17 and some other edifices were the contributions of the Gupta age.  During the seventh-eights centuries A.D., several buddha images were installed and temple 18 erected the foundations of an earlier edifice at the site several temples and monasteries were built during the medieval period when the Pratiharas and Paramaras of Malwa flourished in the region. Amongst these, the Temple 45 is typical for its dimensions and exhuberant ornamentation.

Stupa 1 (second century B.C.) consists of a plastered dome crowned by a triple umbrella within a railing and contains within its core the brick stupa of Asoka. A circumambulatory path approached by a double stairway is built against its base. The ground balustrade marks another procession path around it. Four gateways (first century B.C.) provide access to the stupa from all four directions. The height and diameter of the stupa are 16.46 and 36.60 meters respectively. The inscribed parts of the railings, pavements, and gateways are the donations of a large number of devotees from Vidisha and other parts fo the country. The scenes carved on the gateway generally depict Jataka legends, scenes from the life of Gautam Buddha, subjects connected with the history of Buddhism, Past Buddhas, and miscellaneous decorative motifs. The four images of Buddha installed against the drum are the additions of the fifth century A.D.







Stupa 2 resembles Stupa 3 in shape and size, but without any gateway. It has a large balustrade with four cardinal entrances and double stairway, leading to the top of the drum. Its reliefs mostly exhibit decorative motifs with some life-scenes of Buddha. General AlexandeCunnighamam found inside the dome, the corporeal relics of ten Buddhist teachers of at least three generations at a height of 2.13 meters above the terrace.





Monastery 51 is a well preserved quadrangular structure remarkable for its stone walls veneered with bricks. Probably the roofs of its cells and verandahs and the verandah pillars had been of wood.  To the west of the monastery lies a giant stone bowl.
Temple and Monastery 45 of the medieval period, stands on the ruins of an earlier structure of the seventh or eights century.  The presence of Ganga and Yamuna on the door-jambs of the temple shows that the Buddhists adopted typically brahminical motifs as well the spire reduce to a bare core was originally embellished with carvings on three sides of the temple or remains of monastic cells.
7:30 PM We reached Bhopal.

Day 8 -- Bandhavgarh National Park to Jabalpur

15-04-2017
10:00 AM We checked out of the places and started towards Jabalpur.



Surprising there is nothing on the way from Bandhavgarh to Jabalpur.
1:20 PM We reached Hotel Satya Ashoka. Here is my review of the place.
If you are driving and want to go to Bheda Ghat. Search for "Bheda Ghat", not for "Bhedaghat". The second one will take you to New Bhedaghat and that will require you to take a cable car to reach the boating area.
We left for Bhedaghat at 3:45 PM and landed up at New Bhedaghat. The cable car was non-functional, so we turned around, came back all the way to the town and went back to old Bheda Ghat.
Boating in the river is always a pleasant activity and when there are marble rocks around you, it is almost divine.







Finally we were back to hotel around 9:15 PM.

Day 7 -- Bandhavgarh National Park

14-04-2017
We had booked morning safari for the day. This was in Tala zone, and we left the place at 5:30 AM.














Sheshshaiya
The Sheshshaiya is believed to have been built by Gollak, the minister of the Kalchuri King, Yuvrajdev, in the 10th century AD. This 25-feet long sculpture has been carved out of a single sandstone rock.  The stream originating from the feet of Lord Visnu's statue is known as Charanganga. It literally means the Ganga arising from the feet. In old scriptures, the Charanganga is a perennial stream and, by joining other streams and rivers, forms the lifeline of Bandhavgarh's wildlife, also supplying water to the tourist complex at Tala and to villages downstream.


11:00 AM We reached back the resort. We were really bored with the food at the resort, so we decided to explore something in the town. We landed up at this place called "Her Cafe". Here is my review of the place.